Raw peace silk weaving in Yayladağı, Hatay, Türkiye
In collaboration with Defne Apollon Atelier
In June 2023, alongside a dear friend, we took a trip to the Yayladağı region in Hatay, over two hours drive from the city of Gaziantep, to visit the Defne Apollon weaving atelier. An ancient region with much history, Hatay is nestled between the Syrian border and the Mediterranean Sea, and its dear people and surroundings were still in recovery during our visit following the unfortunate earthquake months before. Historically, Seri (silk) culture was widespread in the area and was practiced in almost every household utilizing traditional methods. With time, due to a lack of demand and an increase in mass-produced yarns, its cultivation has slowly diminished. Today, few remaining ateliers continue their family vocations. Emel Duman, who initiated her atelier in 1997, now works alongside her mother and daughter, to revive silk cultivation in the area. Her efforts and research are not only limited to increasing silk production, but she also collaborates with scholars and researchers to cultivate a specific yellow silk yarn, distinct to these lands. They are also the only atelier in the country that cultivates peace silk, a cruelty-free way to develop the silk yarns, without hurting the silkworms.
DEFNE APOLLON ATELIER GARDEN IN JUNE 2023
WEAVING LOOM IN THE ATELIER
: RESEARCH : SILK COCOONS IN BURSA FOR SALE, 1990, TURKEY, WALTER B. DENNY
In Defne Apollon atelier, everything takes place in the same space; from the first step of the silk cultivation, to the last step of the weaving of the yarns. Mulberry trees are all over the gardens, feeding the silk worms. Multiple weaving looms are found inside the atelier and various fabrics and household textiles are sold in their showroom.
RESEARCH, HATAY, OTTOMAN BANK ARCHIVE, SALT GALATA
OLD WEAVING LOOM
SILK YARN IN DEFNE APOLLON SHOWROOM
EMEL DUMAN, FOUNDER OF DEFNE APOLLON
As the atelier was not yet back in production during our visit, a new collaboration was not feasible. However, a small quantity of raw, peace silk was available to take home, woven by Emel Duman in the earlier years of her weaving practice. With a raw yet soft texture, this small-width fabric has slim stripes, is semi-transparent, and drapes delicately on the body. A top and skirt were constructed using this fabric for edition iv, highlighting the rawness of the textile.