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Oya hand embroidery, Trabzon, Türkiye

In collaboration with Kumru Mısırlıoğlu

Oya is an antique hand embroidery found all over Turkey, traditionally on silk fabrics and around the edges of scarves. There are many different motifs, shapes, and colors, taking a meaning from their makers,who were usually inspired by elements of nature around them. For many women, oya embroidery was a tool of communication, especially at times when they could not express their opinions openly. By creating and wearing these precious embroideries on their scarves, they disclosed a peculiar language; expressing emotions and thoughts through their needlework.Each color and motif took on its own meaning and told a story of its wearer. There are two different types of oya embroideries created for the studio, crafted in collaboration with Kumru Mısırlıoğlu following in-depth research and development. The first oya motif was based on an old scarf acquired from an older family member and reworked to achieve its form today. This signature flower motif is embroidered and then attached using a special chain stitch to the fabric's edges. A recent version is introduced with edition iv, oya with glass beads. Named mulberry due to its shape, it was developed following extensive research and the abundant presence of mulberry in the Trabzon and Black Sea region.

RESAERCH : WOMAN WITH WHITE SCARF, 1977, JOSEPHINE POWELL, Koc University archives

RESAERCH : WOMAN WITH WHITE SCARF, 1977, JOSEPHINE POWELL, Koc University archives

needle lace oya, early 20th century, Cooper Hewitt museum, 1914


needle lace oya, early 20th century, Cooper Hewitt museum, 1914


KUMRU IN TRABZON, JUNE 2023

KUMRU IN TRABZON, JUNE 2023

Within research, the oya embroidery can be traced back to the earlier Ottoman period, even though the beaded versions seem to have appeared much later. The image on the right is documented south eastern Türkiye, by historian and photographer Josephine Powell, depicting a woman with a traditional oya beading embroidered scarf, captured in 1977.

PERSONAL ARCHIVE, OLD SCARF FROM AYVALIK Türkiye, 2022

PERSONAL ARCHIVE, OLD SCARF FROM AYVALIK Türkiye, 2022

RESARCH : ILLUSTRATED INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE TURKISH LACE WORKS CATALOGUE, 2001

RESARCH : ILLUSTRATED INSTRUCTIONS FROM THE TURKISH LACE WORKS CATALOGUE, 2001

KUMRU ATTACHING OYA TO carré 60

KUMRU ATTACHING OYA TO carré 60

RESEARCH : WOMAN IN LOCAL DRESS, 1984, MANISA, JOSEPHINE POWELL

RESEARCH : WOMAN IN LOCAL DRESS, 1984, MANISA, JOSEPHINE POWELL

The collaboration with Kumru allows a well-researched and studied approach to the oya embroideries to adapt them to today's ways of dressing. Many different stitching techniques, threads, and ideas are experimented together. In the editions, they appear around scarves to preserve the traditional use, but also as decorative elements around the edges of garments, as well as pieces of their own as belts or tops.