Kutnu textile weaving, Gaziantep, Türkiye
Three-generation family-owned atelier
Kutnu is a striped woven fabric from the southeastern city of Gaziantep in Türkiye. Given its geographical positioning, it is no surprise that many sources indicate kutnu as a weaving technique learned from Syrian weavers. The word kutnu came into the Turkish language from the Arabic word kutn, meaning "a cotton fabric". Despite what the word’s origin suggests, historically, the kutnu of Gaziantep is a weave of cotton and silk fibers. With time, the silk has been replaced with viscose, due to the lack of silk production in the area and the uprising concerns around the pricing of imported silk fibers. During earlier research stages of the studio, I came across the kutnu fabric in the ‘Textiles of the Islamic World ” book by John Gillow, which was followed by a visit to Gaziantep. There, I met Kasım Kaygın, a shop owner in the Copper Market, who has a long family history associated with kutnu-weaving. Aside from giving a TED talk on the history of kutnu, he initiated kutnu weaving classes at the Gaziantep City University to teach this technique to new generations of weavers. A collaboration with the third-generation Mekikçi Atelier followed and as a result, we created two different kutnu weaves in limited quantities, using FSC-certified viscose and surplus cotton fibers.
GAZIANTEP CITY UNIVERSITY KUTNU ATELIER VISIT, JUNE 2019
GAZIANTEP COPPER MARKET, JUNE 2023
A MASHRU(SILK AND COTTON DRESS, GAZIANTEP, TEXTILES OF THE ISLAMIC WORLD BOOK
Kutnu has many different versions even though most variations have a striped pattern. It has a shiny surface with a slightly rough finish, sometimes due to the cotton thread used in the weft.
OLD YARN SPINNING TOOL, GAZIANTEP, JUNE 2019
WOMEN SEWING A DRESS, SIVAS, 1976, JOSEPHINE POWELL, KOC UNIVERSITY Archives
Today, kutnu weaving still carries on the artisanal methods and thus is very time-consuming and delicate in the making. This collaboration allowed the kutnu weave to be crafted traditionally while proposing a more present-day aesthetic.